Day 49. Durdle Door to Worth Matravers

Had a slow start because I bumped into some friends staying on the site in their humungus motor home and then had to back track a bit from the campsite to get to where I left the path near Durdle Door.

Durdle Door

It was Sunday and the area was very crowded with visitors of all nationalities.

Walking up the hill from Durdle Door I caught up with a couple of hikers that looked like they were on a bit of a mission.
We got chatting and they said that they were doing the Dorset Doddle; a walk that leaves Weymouth at 8am and aims to arrive in Swanage by 8pm.
That's about 35 miles with a cumulative ascent of about 6,600 feet.
Good to see that irony is alive and well in Dorset because that is definitely not a doddle.
They were the tail enders and I had my doubts that they were going to arrive by 8pm.

At Lulworth Cove I somehow passed the Lulworth Cove Inn without going in and followed the signs up to Stair Hole that looked popular with climbers and swimmers this morning.

Stair Hole

Went up further to get the view of the cove and followed the signs that went full circle back to the Inn.
Tried again but couldn't find a way out of the village and went past the Inn four times before eventually deciding to walk around the beach and climb up the other side.

Lulworth Cove

Lulworth Cove

Immediately after Lulworth Cove I came to the M.O.D. ranges that covered the next five miles or so.
The M.O.D. own a huge amount of property.
Fortunately the ranges are open to walk through at weekends in the summer so that saved a few miles of diversions.

There were some hefty climbs and a good view inland to Lulworth Castle and the venue for Camp Bestival.

Arish Mell and Halcombe Vale with the inevitable hill fort on the top

There had been a few showers but the big black clouds seemed to be mostly staying out at sea.
It was, however, getting very slippery on the steep descents.

Bindon Plantation

There were lots of information boards with interesting history about iron age settlements and how the military took possession of entire villages and hamlets and re-settled the residents.

Worbarrow Bay

Although I was getting hungry it was too wet to get the stove out and I had eaten my few bars and fruit so I was looking forward to Kimmeridge Bay where there would be refreshments.

Just before Kimmeridge Bay there was an oil well.
It sounds very grand but it's just one nodding donkey that produces about 80 barrels of oil a day from the shale and has been in operation since 1959.

Kimmeridge Bay and Clavell's Tower

The 'refreshments' at Kimmeridge Bay was actually just an ice cream van.
Had a look in the Marine Centre that was full of interesting stuff and had loads of information boards like this:

Climbed the steep hill up to Clavell's Tower where, apparently, Thomas Hardy used to go courting one of the local girls.
I thought there wouldn't have been much 'courting' happening after those climbs.
It was also the inspiration for PD James's book The Black Tower.

Jurassic

Those big black clouds that had been out at sea decided to move on to the land so the weather changed from showers to monsoon.

Might be in for a drop of rain

The steep, narrow, little paths soon turned into little rivers.
My trainers had worn quite smooth after 600 miles and couldn't get any grip at all on the Kimmeridge clay.
Once again it was my walking poles that saved the day.

170 slippery, wet steps down from Houns-tout Cliff

The deluge abated when I got to Chapman's Pool so I sat on a concrete block to wring out my socks and consider my options.
Camping was out of the question and Swanage was a further three hours or so I went inland to find accommodation in Worth Matravers and got very lucky at the Old Post Office.

Got cleaned up and went to the village pub knowing that I was probably too late for food.

But no - The Square and Compass was a proper pub where they made their own pies and were happy to heat them up and serve until closing time.

This was a great pub where they served real ale through a small hatch and the beer barrels were lined up on the floor.

The building had lots of character and loads of original features and also a fossil museum in a side room.
The beer was good too!

What a great way to end the day.