Day 37. Scobbiscombe Cliffs to Hope Cove

My idea of camping is to finish the day with a shower to wash off the residue from eight hours of sweating profusely, cleanse the feet of muddy river gloop stuck between the toes, remove any foreign bodies that had taken up residence in the folds and creases of the nether regions, followed by a couple of pints and a hearty meal in a nearby pub.

None of the above was available at Scobbiscombe Cliffs but I couldn't imagine a better spot to pitch a tent.

It was a beautiful morning and we were nearly finished packing away when the farmer appeared at the top of the field on top of the distant hill to let the cows into the field adjacent to us.

The big herd came stampeding down the hill straight towards us.
It was quite a terrifying sight and we could feel the ground shaking.
I was pleased to see that the fence was in good condition as the cows were obviously very curious to come and have a closer look at us and our tents.

We love cows - when there's a fence between us

Then the flock of sheep came sprinting down the hill towards us on our side of the fence.
It looked like they weren't expecting us as they ran straight to us but suddenly stopped at about fifteen feet away like there was a force field holding them back.

The sheep were less frightening

View from Scobbiscombe Cliffs

Our only obstacle today would be crossing the River Avon.
There's a ferry across that - guess what - only runs between 10 and 11am and between 3 and 4pm.
Like the previous day, the river was about three hours away but this time we wouldn't be relying on a ferryman's rudimentary grasp of timetables to get us started.

We set off at about 7.30 on a breakfast of nettle seeds and sea samphire (I'm not kidding) with a view along the coast in front of us.

 The roller coaster towards Bigbury

At the risk of repeating myself, some of the hills were very steep and it was getting hot, but Bigbury Island looked a little closer every time we got to the top of another hill.

The path was empty this lovely morning.
The strenuous climbs would put most people off and we didn't meet anyone until we passed another hi de hi resort at Challaborough Sands.



Challaborough Sands and Bigbury Island,

We thought we were nearly there when we got to Bigbury around 10.30 but we resisted the numerous eateries offering breakfast because we still had to go all the way up to Mt Folly Farm and all the way back down again to the river.

The Avon Estuary

We got to the Avon with about fifteen minutes to spare and to get the ferry across we stood next to an information board and waved and whistled to the other side.
Because the tide was out we walked most of the way across and then went in the tiny boat, for about a minute to the slipway, that cost £3.00 but we did get a recommendation for breakfast at the Bantham Village Store & Cafe.

The thought of a (proper) breakfast had kept us going all morning and the cafe didn't disappoint.

I thought I had used every adjective to describe the severity of the hills so far but the waitress at the cafe put it very succinctly.
' You warrkin the parrrth?' she asked.
'Yes, we've just come from the Erme'
'Bloimey, some of them hills around Westcombe and Ayrmer Cove, well thurr juz mental'

Bantham Village

Once we got up the (not quite mental) hill from the beach car park the path was much easier and we stopped at a little beach below the golf course.

Hannah had a swim and I watched about twenty golfers all try and fail to hit an elevated green.

Thurlestone golf club runs alongside the cliffs and seems to be getting narrower each year as another piece of cliff slips away.

Hope Cove

After a hot and weary trudge up a long narrow lane from Outer Hope we got to an unwelcoming campsite ( Karrageen) that wanted £ 28.00 for a single pitch.

We received a warm welcome at Bolberry House Farm campsite and Fiona who runs it couldn't have been more friendly and helpful.

Walked back to Hope in the evening to meet up with Gerry and walked back up through the moonlit fields.