Day 43. Ladram Bay to Axmouth

I'm always amazed at how early some joggers, walkers and bikers start along the path.

Even though I was camped miles from anywhere I could hear a runner pounding up the hill before dawn.

Went through some National Trust meadows and woods around Peak Hill and then dropped down into Sidmouth.

Looking down to Sidmouth and the climbs beyond

Had a wash, a coffee and breakfast in Costa where they didn't mind me plugging the phone in and sitting for a couple of hours.

Sidmouth was in great shape with interesting shops on tiny streets decorated with bunting.

Found a quiet bench along the front and did a bit of foot maintenance in preparation for the demanding set of hills ahead.

Sidmouth in the foreground, Windgate Cliff and Ladram Bay further back

 On one of the numerous climbs I met the ranger who monitors this area for the South West Coast Path Association (sorry but I didn't write your name down) and we chatted about the stunning scenery and path maintenance matters.

Weston Mouth

Don't step back

Stopped at Weston Mouth to dip my feet and have a rest.

My feet were suffering the effects of the long wet day in the sandals on Tuesday.
My left foot looked like an old map of the British Empire, with massive pink areas, and the veins on my right foot were bulging out like a 3D contour map of the Lake District.

The climb out of Weston Mouth was a thigh burner and a lung buster.

I remembered walking this stretch about twenty years before when the girls were only young.

We must have been rotten parents.

Grassy Bumps

I stopped on a bench on the way to Branscombe and met a real live pilgrim.
He was an intelligent young man who was walking from Kent to the Schumacher college at Dartington in mid Devon without spending money but relying on the goodwill of strangers to provide somewhere to rest and something to eat.

I thought he looked a bit thin and tired.
Seriously though, we had a good long chat and his adventures made me look like a bit of a lightweight for ducking into hotels at the first drop of rain.

Stopped for a bite to eat at Branscombe Mouth but had to pay as l couldn't convince the staff that I was a pilgrim.

Branscombe Mouth

Up and over the hill I came to the pretty village of Beer.

It just had to be done

Another inland diversion after Beer brought me into Seaton.

After the lovely towns and villages I had passed through, Seaton was a big disappointment.
The architecture along the sea front was hideous.
The architects that designed those monstrosities and the councillors that approved them should be ashamed.

Walked inland a bit to a campsite at Axmouth; a friendly site with a decent pub next to the entrance.

The pub had a locals area called bullshit corner, reserved for fishermen and other liars - made me chuckle.

Sunset over the River Axe

The campsite was great, with a great view over the river Ax but unfortunately the next tent along was occupied by the Devon snoring champion.