Friday, 14 July 2017

Day 44. Axmouth to West Bay

Couldn't help a feeling of déjà vu as I walked out of town and climbed up the hill, past the golf course, out onto the cliffs and then an inland diversion.

Out on the cliff again and a first glimpse of the Isle of Portland way off to the east.

Looking back at Beer Head, the most westerly chalk cliffs.

But after that the scenery changed completely as I walked through an area known as Goat Island.
In 1839 about fifteen acres slipped towards the sea leaving a 180 ft deep chasm between the two cliffs.

These information boards explain it better than I can.




It felt strange to be walking close to the sea but not able to see it.
The path was very narrow in places and it was getting hot and humid so I sometimes felt like I was hacking through a jungle.

I didn't meet many people but a few I did meet would ask me how far was it to get out onto the cliffs because they felt claustrophobic in there.

After about five miles I was starting to feel it too and felt a bit of relief to get to the Undercliff nature reserve where the woodland opened out.

Some of the exposed chalk cliff

Somewhere along the way I crossed from Devon into Dorset and looked down a hill to Lyme Regis and the famous Cob

The town was looking at its best in the sunshine and was packed.
Stopped for lunch at the Rock House Inn but they weren't playing any rock, just the awful absolute 80's radio at ear splitting volume.

As it was low tide I was able to walk along the beach from Lyme Regis to Charmouth, saving a few miles of road walking where the coast path had crumbled into the sea.

Walked to the accompiment of hundreds of small hammers trying to break open the rocks to find Jurassic fossils.

Stopped for a rest at Charmouth beach next to the wonderfully named Soft Rock Cafe and a breather before the climbs ahead.

Looking up at Golden Cap

Had a long steady climb up to Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast, where the views were brilliant on this fine evening and I had the peak to myself.

191m, 627 feet above sea level

West Bay in the distance


Seatown and Golden Cap

Thorncombe Beacon

Feeling pretty knackered by now I stopped for a pint at the Anchor Inn at Seatown, once home to notorious smugglers known as the Chideock Gang.

Thought I would have a refreshing shower and stay at the campsite at Seatown but, because this was the first Friday of the school holidays, it was full.

Same story at Eype and at West Bay so I pitched up on the cliff above West Bay with a fantastic view back along the coast.

Good Night

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