Sunday, 9 July 2017

Day 39. Beesands to Dartmouth




The human foot has 26 bones, 33 joints and over a hundred muscles, ligaments and tendons.
I could feel each and every one of them as I walked back to the village to use the facilities.
We camped in a great spot near the beach and slept well but were in direct sunlight early on and it was warming up.

Waited for the fish shed cafe to open at 10 and went to grab a table in the shade only to be told that all the tables were booked.
Took our breakfast baps with us and set off on, what we were sure, would be an easier day.

There was the usual stiff climb to start the day, up and over to Torcross and then along the three mile stretch of Slapton Sands.

Slapton Sands

This whole area was taken over by the military during the second world war and used as a practice ground for a full battle rehearsal for the Normandy landings, known as Exercise Tiger.

An enemy E boat was in the area and fired on what it thought were tankers.
749 US soldiers were killed, more than those who lost their lives in the actual attack on Utah Beach.

Many of the soldiers drowned because their uniforms were too heavy and their life jackets were incorrectly fitted, forcing them face down into the water.

Also, the British and American forces were using different radio frequencies that slowed the rescue operations.

The whole disaster was covered up to protect morale and to wrong foot the enemy but many lessons were learned and changes made that helped to make the landings successful.

A rusting Sherman tank, pulled from the water, stands at the end of the beach as a memorial.

Up a steep climb after Slapton Sands it became very tropical with thick vegetation and unusual plants.

They may not look very big in this picture

But they do in this one

Hannah was in her element with the plethora of herbs.

I had been looking forward to lunch at the pub in Strete that I'd been in before but was sad to see that it had closed down.

Blackpool Sands

Blackpool Sands looked so inviting that we just had to stop for a quick dip and a late lunch.
There was a clamour for the tables on the sunny terrace but we were the only customers looking for a table inside, out of the sun.


We had a long, hot, steady climb along a lane (Rectory Lane) to Stoke Fleming.
Couldn't help getting the feeling that we weren't welcome in Stoke Fleming as the path seemed to take a circuitous route around, rather than through, the village or along the coast.
Even the kissing gates were too small to get through with the rucksacks on. Grrr! 
This unwelcoming feel continued after the village where landowners (redlap?) have obviously refused access along the coast, sending us on an inland road for a few miles.

My feet were very uncomfortable and we stopped a couple of times to get small pebbles and beach detritus out, but closer inspection revealed that I was suffering from athletes foot following the recent heatwave.

Followed the path out to Blackstone Point and then up the gorgeous Dart Estuary.

Dart Estuary

Across to Kingswear

Made the mistake of thinking that was the end of the climbing for the day but had to go down steep steps and zigzags through the woods to arrive at Dartmouth Castle and back up again into town.

On the way into Dartmouth

Didn't get to the B&B until about 7.00 - so much for an easy day.

Met my sister Rose and we all went out for a meal in town.
I hadn't had this much company since I started.




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