Day 19. Portreath to St Ives.

A stiff climb out of Portreath up to the cliffs soon had us sweating and it wasn't even 9. o clock yet.

Then it was a fairly level walk along grass covered cliffs but a couple of sudden dips had us sweating some more on the climbs with a bit of a breeze providing welcome relief at the top.

Gerry joined the Cornish Separatists

We soon reached Hell's Mouth where the path diverted inland again because more cliffs had been eaten away by the insatiable ocean.
It was a steep drop over the cliff edge and there were several signs on the low fence with the Samaritans help line number.

Climbing over a couple of stiles I got chatting to a lovely young lady called Sophie. She was walking the Cornish coast and filming wildlife along the way for her masters.
I told her she would shortly be in just the spot for seal watching because when we reach Navax Point near Godrevy there will be seals lying on the beach, shoulder to shoulder like the sunbathers at Perranporth.
I had been to this spot numerous times when it was always packed with hundreds of seals, but today - nothing.
Eventually one came swimming in but I could feel her disappointment as we left her there hoping to see and film some more.

We stopped at the Godrevy Cafe then walked along Gwithian Beach through the surf schools (ok guys...) and avoided the incoming tide by walking on the dunes with great views back to the lighthouse.

Godrevy Lighthouse.

The inspiration for Virginia Woolf's To The Lighthouse.

 We got back on to the beach for the long walk to Hayle and around the river inlet into town where the temperature was 25°C.
We had lunch and Gerry caught the train home but I pressed on along the road section around Lelant Saltings.

The walk along the lane to St Uny's Church felt sub tropical.

 It was even hotter after the church and obviously too hot for golf as the Royal West Cornwall course was empty.

The tide was still a bit too high to walk along Porth Kidney Sands so I walked through the back of the dunes on the narrow path through the overgrown vegetation.

Porth Kidney Sands

Carbis Bay

I walked down and along Carbis Beach but only as far as the hotel where building work has closed access from the end of the beach and the path diverted through the hotel grounds.

Felt a bit out of place walking through a wedding party in my dirty, smelly hiking gear.

When I reached St Ives I asked about campsites but the general consensus was that they would still be full after the fine weekend so I caught the bus to Treen. 

The open topped bus ride down the coast must be the most scenic bus ride in the country but also one of the slowest through the narrow lanes, shared with delivery vans, tractors and cattle.

Rush hour near the Gurnards Head Hotel

The campsite at Treen Farm had the 'full' sign up but they managed to squeeze me in as they said they always make room for coast path walkers.
It was very late and I was very grateful.